Scroll saw or band saw—if you’re wondering which one to get, you’re not alone. I’ve been woodworking for over 50 years, and I’ve used both extensively. In fact, I’ve had my scroll saw longer than my band saw, and both still live here in my shop. They might look similar, when we glance at their results, but the way they cut, what they cut, and how they function are very different.

Let me walk you through what sets them apart, what each tool excels at, and help you figure out which one might be right for your shop.

Size and Throat Depth

Let’s start with the most obvious difference—size.

My scroll saw is compact and fairly light. My band saw, on the other hand, is much bulkier—even though it’s just a 10-inch model. Larger band saws can get much bigger than that.

The size of the tool affects something called throat depth—that’s the distance from the blade to the back of the saw.

• On my band saw, I’ve got a throat depth of just under 10 inches, which determines how wide a piece I can run through it. Larger models go well beyond that.
  
  
• On the scroll saw, the throat depth limits how far you can push a workpiece before the frame gets in the way. You’re also limited by the length of the piece, since the blade only cuts forward—unless you rotate the blade 90°, which isn’t common.

So, if you’re planning on cutting large or thick material, you’re going to hit the ceiling pretty quickly with a scroll saw. That’s where the band saw steps in—it can handle much bigger workpieces without batting an eye.

Blade Action and Cutting Style

Here’s where things really start to differ: how the blade moves and what that means for your cuts.

The scroll saw has a narrow 5-inch blade that moves in a reciprocating (up-and-down) motion. The cut it makes is very fine, and that’s why it’s perfect for tight, intricate curves and detailed interior cuts. What makes the scroll saw so unique is the ability to remove the blade, thread it through a drilled hole in your workpiece, and then reconnect it. That lets you cut shapes from the inside out—something a band saw simply can’t do.

The band saw, by contrast, uses a continuous loop blade that moves in one direction—downward. It’s better for straight or gently curved cuts, and because it doesn’t stop, it cuts much faster than a scroll saw.

Blade variety matters, too:

• On the scroll saw, I use pinned blades, though some saws can take pinless blades that allow for even more delicate work like marquetry or jewelry cutting.
  
  
• On the bandsaw, I keep multiple blades on hand—1/8", 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2"—to suit different types of cuts. A thinner blade gives me a tighter turning radius, while a wider blade is more stable for straight cuts and resawing.

So, if you need tight curves and decorative cuts, go scroll saw. If you’re cutting thick material or need to make long, smooth cuts, the band saw is your friend.

Scroll Saw vs. Band Saw: What Do They Excel At?

Scroll Saw: Precision and Detail

I’ve owned my scroll saw longer than my band saw, and for years, it was my only way to cut curves. It’s incredibly useful, especially for small, detailed, and decorative projects—things like:

• Inlay work
  
• Intricate signs or lettering
  
• Scrollwork (hence the name)
  
• Cutting out shapes inside a piece of wood

It handles material up to about 1.5 inches thick—but anything beyond that, and the saw starts to struggle, especially if the motor is underpowered. Most scroll saw work is done on thinner stock, like 1/4-inch plywood or veneer.

You see some really intricate scroll saw work out there—highly detailed designs, marquetry, even jewelry. For that level of precision, the scroll saw is unbeatable. I’ve even seen people use pinless jeweler’s blades to cut through metal for fine jewelry work.

It’s not fast—but it is precise. That’s the trade-off.

Band Saw: Versatility and Power

When I finally added a bandsaw to my shop, I immediately gained capabilities that the scroll saw couldn’t match.

Here’s what the band saw excels at:

1. Resawing

This is one of the biggest reasons I reach for the band saw. I can take a 3/4-inch thick board and slice it into two thinner boards—perfect for things like box making or bent wood lamination. It’s faster, more efficient, and less wasteful than buying pre-resawn stock.

2. Cutting Larger or Thicker Material

My band saw has a 6-inch resaw capacity, and it handles thicker hardwoods like a champ. A scroll saw just can’t do that.

3. Lathe Blank Prep

When I prep rough wood for turning—like a crotch piece of crepe myrtle—I use the band saw to shape and balance it before it ever touches the lathe.

4. General Curve Cutting

While it won’t do interior cutouts, the band saw is excellent for exterior curves and larger sweeping arcs—especially with a 1/8" or 1/4" blade.

5. Speed

It’s a faster saw. If I’m breaking down stock or doing multiple repetitive cuts, the band saw gets the job done quickly.

Limitations of the Scroll Saw and Band Saw

No single tool does it all. Both the scroll saw and the band saw have their strengths—but they also come with limitations. Here’s a closer look based on my experience using them side by side.

Scroll Saw

• Cutting Thickness: You can get through about an inch and a half of material, maybe 2 inches max. Anything more than that, and the saw struggles—especially if the motor is underpowered.
  
  
• Speed: It’s not a fast cutter. If you're planning to cut out large patterns or repeat the same shape several times, be ready to spend some time on it. The up-and-down motion is slower by nature, and pushing the material too quickly can break the blade or splinter the edges.
  
  
• No Fence: It doesn’t come with a ripping fence. Sure, you can clamp something down and make a makeshift one, but scroll saws aren’t really designed for ripping or straight-line cuts.
  

• Material Size: Most scroll saws are better suited for smaller projects—say, a foot square or less. Larger pieces can get hard to control without a big enough table.
  
  

Band Saw

• Turning Radius: It simply can’t compete with the scroll saw for tight or detailed interior curves. Even with a 1/8" blade, the minimum radius you can cut is around 3/8". Anything tighter starts to stress the blade or cause wandering.
  
  
• No Interior Cuts: Because the blade is a continuous loop, you can’t stop it, remove it, and feed it through a hole like you can with a scroll saw. If you need to cut a shape out from the inside, you’ll have to drill, use a scroll saw, or switch to another method entirely.

• Blade Changes and Adjustments: Changing blades or adjusting guides and tension can take a bit more time. It's not difficult once you get used to it, but it's definitely more involved than a quick blade swap on a scroll saw.
  
  
• Footprint: Band saws take up more space. Even a compact 10" saw has a larger base and taller profile than most scroll saws. If you're working in a tight space, that's something to consider.

What To Look For When Buying

If you’re in the market for one of these saws, here’s what I’d recommend looking at:

Scroll Saw

• Blade type: Some take pinned blades, others take pinless ones. Pinned blades are easier to install and great for general use. Pinless blades allow for finer cuts and are better suited for detailed work like marquetry or cutting metal for jewelry.
  
  
• Throat depth and table size: This limits how big your workpiece can be.
  
  
• Motor power: Underpowered motors will struggle even with softwoods. I’ve had a scroll saw in the past that couldn’t handle 3/4-inch oak very well.
  
  
• Variable speed: My current saw has high and low settings, but better models offer rheostat-style variable speed—handy when switching between thick stock and delicate veneers.
  
  
• Table tilt: Most scroll work doesn’t require tilting the table, but for specialty work like beveled marquetry, it’s a great feature to have.

Band Saw

• Wheel Size (Throat Depth): A 10-inch band saw is fine for light-duty use, but if you're planning to resaw large boards or cut wide material, look for 14-inch or larger models. Bigger wheels usually mean deeper throat clearance and greater cutting capacity.

• Resaw Height Capacity: This is the maximum thickness your band saw can handle vertically. Mine tops out at 6 inches, which is plenty for most work, but it wouldn’t handle a 1x8. Know what your projects will demand.
  
  
• Motor Power: My saw has a 1 HP motor, and it does just fine with resawing 6-inch hardwood. If you're buying a larger saw, look for something closer to 1.5 or 2 HP.
  
  
• Table Material and Size: Cast iron tables are best—they’re heavy, flat, and help reduce vibration. Mine has a cast aluminum table, which is okay for most light-duty work but not quite as stable.
  
  
• Blade variety: I use a range from 1/8" to 1/2", depending on the job. Bigger saws can take wider blades for straighter, more stable cuts.

So… Which One Should You Buy?

That depends entirely on what kind of woodworking you want to do.

For years, I got by with just a scroll saw because most of my work was small, decorative, and detail-focused. But once I needed to resaw, prepare lathe blanks, or work with thicker hardwoods, the band saw quickly became essential.

If your budget is tight, a decent scroll saw can be had for $150–$200. Band saws start closer to $350 and can climb well into the thousands for larger or more powerful models.

If you’re just starting out and plan to work on small projects—start with the scroll saw. But if you’re doing resawing, working with thick material, or preparing turning blanks—invest in a band saw. You can always go for a smaller bandsaw, then upgrade later.