Table Saw vs. Miter Saw: Which One Belongs in Your Shop?

After 50 years in woodworking, I’ve used both table saws and miter saws more times than I can count. They’re both excellent tools, but they serve very different purposes. Let’s walk through the differences, what each saw was designed for, and which one might be the better fit for your kind of woodworking.

Where They Come From

The miter saw actually started out as a simple hand tool—a miter box and back saw that trim carpenters used to cut door casings, baseboards, and moldings by hand. The powered version came along to make those same cuts faster and easier. While the radial arm saw could do similar work, it was heavy, bulky and hard to transport—great for a shop, not so much for a job site. That’s where the miter saw really found its place, and over time, woodworkers adopted it too. Today’s models are far better than what I had 30 years ago.

As for the table saw—it’s been around so long, its roots go all the way back to water-powered sawmills. It’s always been a universal tool: just a flat table with a blade sticking up. And with all the jigs, sleds, and accessories we can add today, it’s more versatile than ever. Both tools have evolved a lot, and both still deserve a spot in a well-rounded shop.

A Quick Disclaimer About My Own Setup

Just to be fully transparent—I don’t currently own a miter saw. The reason is simple: I’ve had a radial arm saw in my shop for over 45 years, and it does just about everything a miter saw can do. I also don’t have the space to keep both set up, so for me, the radial arm saw fills that role.

Now, if I were doing finish carpentry in other people’s homes—installing trim, baseboards, or crown molding on-site—I’d definitely want a miter saw. It’s portable, precise, and built for that kind of job. But since most of my work happens right here in the shop, I just stick with the tool that’s already doing the job.

 

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Let’s Talk About Miter Saws

The evolution of miter saws has been pretty fascinating, especially seeing how far they’ve come since I started woodworking. Let me walk you through the types, features, and what they’re best (and not best) at.

Evolution of the Miter Saw

• Single Bevel Miter Saw

These were the original powered miter saws. They swivel from side to side, allowing for angle cuts (usually from 0° to 45° in either direction), which was more than enough for a lot of trim and framing work.but they only tilt the blade in one direction. 

But that only got you so far. The moment you start talking about crown molding, especially on outside corners, you realize you need to make compound cuts—angled in two directions. That’s when dual bevel miter saws came in.

• Dual Bevel Miter Saw

A big leap forward. Now, the blade can tilt in both directions, which is crucial for making compound angle cuts, like those needed for crown molding on outside corners. That second axis of movement opens up much more complex joinery.

• Sliding Dual Bevel Miter Saw

The next big step forward was the sliding dual bevel miter saw. A lot of people just call them sliding miter saws—and most of them are dual bevel by default.

What makes them special is that the blade doesn’t just move up and down—it can also slide forward on rails. Think of it like a scaled-down radial arm saw. That forward movement means you can cut wider boards without needing a giant blade. So instead of struggling with a 2x12 on a fixed-head saw, the slide makes it doable with a 10" or 12" blade.

This also unlocks another great feature: depth stops. You can set the saw to only go down partway into the wood, which makes half-lap joints and other shallow cuts possible. You can see what you're doing as you go, which is a big advantage over doing those same cuts blind on a table saw.

Flexibility and Setup

Modern miter saws come with positive stops at common angles and fine-tuning adjustments to make sure your 90° really is 90°. These adjustments matter—shock and vibration can knock a saw out of alignment over time.

Many woodworkers mount their miter saws to a custom bench or station with long fences and stop blocks. This makes it fast and accurate to repeat cuts of the same length—ideal when you're processing dozens of pieces of dimensional lumber.

Even without the extended fence, the built-in fence works fine for shorter material.

Limitations

Despite all that versatility, the miter saw has its limits. It’s a crosscutting tool—not a ripping tool. It’s just not built for ripping boards lengthwise, and trying to use it that way would be both ineffective and unsafe.

The radial arm saw can technically do ripping, but I personally don’t like using it for that. There's more risk involved, especially if you’re not careful. In general, miter saws are safer because of how the blade moves through the material—there’s less chance of the saw pulling itself forward unexpectedly.

Final tip: Buy a good miter saw. Cheaper models will frustrate you with limitations and poor accuracy.

 

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Let’s Talk About Table Saws

Now let’s take a look at table saws—because if there’s one tool that sees constant use in my shop, it’s this one. I probably use my table saw more than any other tool I own. It’s incredibly versatile, and most woodworking projects start with breaking down lumber. Whether you’re ripping boards, cutting panels, or making joinery, the table saw is often the go-to.

 

Table Saw Sizes and Types

• Cabinet saws
  These are the heavy hitters—some of them have massive tables that extend eight feet in one direction and eight in the other. They’re built for processing full sheets of plywood with ease, and if you’ve got the space and the budget, they’re fantastic. But for most of us, space is at a premium, and we need something a bit more manageable.

• Contractor saws
  Contractor saws like mine are more portable. It’s got a rolling stand that folds up like a hand truck, so I can move it around if I need to or take it to a job site.My current saw is quite a bit bigger than the contractor saw I used to have, and while it doesn’t have all the bells and whistles of a cabinet saw, it handles most of what I need. Like many contractor models, it has a cast aluminum table—not cast iron—but it still performs well for everyday use.

Bigger saws tend to be more precise, but also cost more. Most home woodworkers (and new woodworkers) start with something in the contractor saw category. And if you’re looking to save some money, I always recommend checking the used market. There are a ton of old table saws—especially Craftsman models—floating around out there, and some of them are real workhorses. You can pick one up for a great price if you know what to look for.

Where Table Saws Struggle: Crosscuts

Historically, the big downside of table saws has always been crosscutting. When it comes to ripping—cutting along the length of a board—table saws shine. You’ve got a rip fence that can be set precisely to your desired width. There’s a built-in scale, and if I want to be more exact, I’ll use a ruler to double-check my measurements. You can also tilt the blade for bevel cuts, which is great for angled work, like mitered box corners.

But when it comes to cutting across the grain—crosscuts—the traditional miter gauge that comes with the saw just doesn’t hold up. Even a decent one (like the one I have) still has limitations. It’s basically a little protractor with a needle, and getting precise angle settings can be tricky. Plus, the whole thing’s just not that large or stable.

Solving the Crosscut Problem

Historically, table saws weren’t great for crosscutting because the stock miter gauges were small and imprecise. But we’ve got solutions:

Aftermarket Miter Gauges

These are built bigger and better than the stock ones that come with most saws. Some models even have preset detents at common angles so you can dial in a perfect 45° or 90° quickly.

Jigs and Sleds

The best solution, though? Sleds and jigs. These have really opened up what table saws can do, especially when you don’t have a miter saw.

One of the most common and useful jigs is the crosscut sled. It runs in the miter slots of your table saw, and it’s got a fixed fence that’s set to exactly 90° from the blade. That means I can knock out a bunch of accurate crosscuts without second-guessing. Some woodworkers even add stop blocks to the sled for repetitive cuts. You can make them any size, too. Mine’s on the smaller side, but I’ve seen folks online with massive sleds for full panels—3 by 4 feet or more.

Then there's the miter sled, which is another handy tool I keep around. It’s built so that the two fences are set at 45° to the blade. Perfect for making picture frames or any kind of miters. Cut one piece on one side, another piece on the other side, and they’ll fit together perfectly. This is how I get the precision of a miter saw—without actually needing one in my shop.

And if you want to get into joinery? I use a tenoning jig to cut tenons cleanly and accurately. Just clamp the workpiece vertically and use the saw to cut both cheeks. It beats doing it by hand.

Must-Have Qualities

With all these attachments and upgrades, table saws can do a lot more than just basic ripping. But here’s the thing—it all hinges on the accuracy of the saw itself.

There are two things I always look at:

• The blade runout—that’s how true the blade spins.
• The fence alignment—it needs to stay perfectly parallel to the blade and not wobble when you slide it.
  
  

Now, fences can be adjusted, and they should be. But if the saw doesn’t let you keep that relationship consistent, it’s not a tool worth owning—no matter the brand or price tag.

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So, Which One Should You Get?

At this point, we’ve looked at the strengths and limitations of both the miter saw and the table saw. Hopefully, you’ve got a clearer picture of what each tool brings to the table — and what it doesn’t.

But we’re still left with the big question: Which one should you buy?

Now, I’ll be honest — I don’t like telling people what they should buy. I’ll give you my personal preference, sure, and I’ve shared that throughout this piece. But my goal isn’t to sway you — it’s to help you make the decision that’s best for your own projects, your own workspace, and your own budget.

Because what works for me might not work for you. The real key here is looking at the type of woodworking you plan on doing.

• Are you remodeling your home or doing lots of trim work? Go with a miter saw.
  
  It’s fast, precise, and portable. It’s great for repeated, accurate crosscuts and angles — perfect for framing, baseboards, crown molding, and quick work on dimensional lumber.
  
  
• Are you building general woodworking projects—birdhouses, cutting boards, furniture, gifts, and all the fun little shop builds? You’ll need a table saw.
  
  It can rip, it can crosscut (with the right sleds), and it opens the door to joinery, bevel cuts, and precision work. And if you’re making cutting boards, you absolutely need a table saw. There’s no getting around that. A miter saw just won’t do the job.

 

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Final Thoughts

So if you’re only going to buy one, here’s my take. For most woodworkers, I’d say the table saw is the better long-term investment. It’s the backbone of many shops for a reason.

But again — don’t take my word for it. Take a hard look at your projects, your workflow, and your space. Then buy the tool that will do what you need it to do best.

Because in the end, the best tool is the one that helps you keep making sawdust.